There is a need for you to make a series of relief cuts at every outside and inside corners so as the flooring will lie flat over the floor, after the flooring has been positioned. For outside corners, you have to start at the top of the lapped-up flooring and cut straight down to the meeting point of walls and floors. For inside corners, you can diagonally cut the excess flooring; gradually trimming it away until the flooring lies flat in the corner. The material that has been lapped up against the walls have to be removed after trimming down the corners.

Pressing the flooring into a right angle where the wall and floor join, should be done by using an 18 to 24-inch-long piece of 2 by 4. The flooring material should expand without buckling. So a gap of 1/8-inch should be left between the edge of the flooring and the wall to allow for the expansion of the material after trimming down the material by laying a heavy straightedge along the wall. You have to ensure that the wall base will overlap the edge of the flooring by a minimum of 1/4 -inch, if you plan to attach a wall base.

Trimming around doorways : There should be a tight fit of flooring around the doorways and other locations because there will be a absence of floor molding to provide a finished appearance. One of the most effective ways to hide the exposed edge of the flooring over a doorjamb is to cut away that much of door casing so as to provide a slip through for the flooring under the casings.

Finishing the job : You have to carefully clean the surface once the flooring is in place. Use a specific floor cleaner recommended by the manufacturer that leaves your flooring unharmed. For the purpose of wiping away adhesive that is still left over on the surface use a solvent recommended by the manufacturer. You have to ensure that the flooring is set firmly into the adhesive if you have installed a flooring using an adhesive. The air bubbles that remain under the floor can be worked out by starting at the center. For this purpose, effective use of a floor roller is recommended.

After the floor is clean, flat and well settled, replacing the baseboards removed can be done. Leave a gap of 1/32 to 1/16 -inch between the flooring and the bottom of the molding and reattach the shoe molding. The movement of the flooring can be slight without buckling, if the nails are always driven through the molding into the baseboards and not through the flooring. Register or vent covers and fixtures that were removed can be replaced now.

Vinyl wall base is an alternative to baseboards and shoe molding. Vinyl wall base is available in a range of attractive colors. The tools used to install vinyl wall base are the same as the tools used to install resilient flooring, except for the adhesives that are made specifically to be used on surfaces that need vertical attachments. One of the characteristics of vinyl wall base is that it is flexible and is also available in rolls. With it's lower edge on the resilient flooring, the vinyl base can be fastened directly on to the wall. It should be out of contact with the surface of the floor.

The manufacturer's recommendations should be followed in installing the wall base, by spreading the adhesive with a notched trowel or by a brush. By allowing the adhesive to set, start at an inside corner, begin to install the base by pressing it strongly until it gets stuck. Stretch the vinyl at outside corners, pressing it strongly against the wall. You have to cut the vinyl to exact fit, by using a sharp utility knife to miter the ends, for the purpose of forming inside corners. For trimming a joint less inside corner score the back of vinyl and bend it to fit tightly into the corner.

You have to finish the sheet flooring as per the recommendations of the manufacturer.