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Size of Your Pond: Mini-ponds such as half-barrels, deep sinks and small rigid liners can be used to house aquatic plants and a few goldfish, but for a proper pond which can be expected to stay clear you should aim for a water surface of at least 40 sq. ft. The minimum depth of water should be 18 inches at some point. If the surface area is 50 sq. ft or more and if you plan to have various types of fish, then a depth of 24 inches is better. For the larger ponds of several hundred sq. ft a depth of 30 inches is required.
Do not forget that a shelf is necessary for housing the Marginal plants which need their crowns to be covered by the water - this shelf can run around a part of the pond or the whole of the pond. It should be at least 10 inches wide and it needs to be 9 inches below the water surface.
Shape of The Pond: Square and rectangle shapes can be made with concrete or building blocks, and are also available as rigid liners. A large variety of other shapes can be purchased as rigid liners such as circles, ovals, oblongs and even triangles and irregular forms. With a Flexible liner it is best to stick to a shape with gentle curves. At all costs avoid fussy shapes and sharp corners as they are not easy to produce with polythene, PVC or butyl sheeting. Both vertical and gentle sloping sides can also pose problems, so the best advice is aim for a 20 degree slope.
The best position for your pond: Where you decide to create your pond is very important. To get a worthwhile display form your Water Lilies and other aquatic plants the site should be shade free for at least 5 - 6 hours during the day. Having said that, the location of your pond should needs to be sheltered from the prevailing wind to avoid scorching of young foliage and the toppling of tall marginal plants. Overhanging trees are also a serious problem. They cast shade of course, but the hidden danger is that their leaves fall into the pond and decompose which in turn produces salts and gases which are harmful to the fish as well as encouraging that awful green algae to flourish.
Trees that are the most dangerous to pond owners include Willow, Horse Chestnut, Poplar, Laburnum, Holly, Laurel and Rhododendron. As well as these there is the Cherry and Plum trees, these two trees are hosts to the Water Lily Aphid not to mention that the tree roots themselves can damage some pond linings. Now, apart from avoiding danger spots there is also a need for convenience and eye-appeal. Ideally the pond should be as close as possible to a source of electricity and water and also close enough to the house for the fountain or waterfall to be seen and heard. The reflection in the water should be attractive to the eye and where possible an informal pond should be sited at the lowest part of the garden.
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In my next article, which again will follow very soon, I will be writing about the different types of materials that you can use to create your pond. I would also like to take this opportunity to thank the "gardener London" company who have given me help and advice during the countless years that I've been gardening.
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