Pie and Mash - A Cultural Icon

Whether it's a song from the cockney duo, Chas and Dave or a scene from Only Fools and Horses, the unlikely subject of the working man's meal - pie and mash - emerges as one of the London's cultural icons. And well it might. Since as long ago as the 18th century, when the food first started to appear in the poorer parts of east and south London, it became a dish that practically defined large swathes of the capital's working classes.

Traditional and iconic it might be, but almost anywhere across London these days, you can share in it too. The very basic fare has seen new recipes and novel touches added to suit even the most modern and discerning palates. And with delivery services that ensure the chosen dishes arrive freshly baked to any venue, pie and mash is becoming one of the "must have" catering solutions for all kinds of parties, conventions and get-togethers that are determined to be different.

You don't have to share Chas and Dave's cockney nostalgia when they sing That's what I like and include the mention of "pie and mash in liquor"; you don't even have to have overheard Rodney during the Slow bus to Chingford episode of Only Fools and Horses when he told us about Del's antics only last week "down the pie and eel shop"; you don't have to do these things, yet can still feel part of the whole scene whilst tucking into a plate of the best pie and mash in town.

Now, finding "the best pie and mash in town" is a peculiarly personal quest. These days, there are even more places to choose from. But, just as in the past, each one will serve its own distinctive dish - and personal taste alone is what sets one apart from another. The meal might look the same, many of the ingredients will be the same, too, but the way they are put together define the special characteristics that make your own favourite "the best".

There might even be some difference of opinion as to what should be considered the central part of the meal. Is it the pie? In the "good ole days", of course, you wouldn't have had a lot of choice over the standard, basic minced mutton that made for the filling. These days, there are many others you could choose from - even some for vegetarians. Or is the mash, with its seemingly countless variations on colour, texture and taste? How do you best like yours - should it be creamily smooth, with a dash of butter and milk, or plainer ("lumpier" even) in more traditional style.

And last - but by no means least - is that old chestnut of the liquor. Just what is the secret of the mysterious liquid poured over your pie and mash? What makes it so green? What makes it so clear - or less so? What is that distinctive taste? It's all a carefully guarded secret - so maybe it's just best not to ask after all.