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Finding a good quality used fishing boat can often pose a daunting experience for the new or first time boater. To simplify this process we have broken it down into seven logical steps that can be applied to any used fishing boat. By following the steps below along with patience you will end up with the best boat for the money you have to spend.
Hull
First step is to inspect the hull for damage or repairs. A give away of hull repair is color mismatches or rivets outlining a patch. Be sure to bend over or even crawl under the boat to thoroughly inspect the bottom of the bull. If any repairs exist, especially to a fiberglass hull I would recommend to walk away. Dents and dings in an aluminum hull won't leak but this damage does reduce the value and can very costly to repair. If looking at a fiberglass hull also check for cracks. Cracks that are only in the top gel-coat layer are acceptable if not excessive. A fiberglass boat that has excessively faded gel-coat or paint should also be avoided as sunlight does degrade fiberglass.
Transom
With the outboard in an elevated position (about 45 degree tilt) try rocking it up and down while observing the transom. If any flexing of the transom is observed I would recommend walking away. This check is very important for fiberglass boats or an aluminum boat that has a transom reinforced with wood.
Floor
Aluminum boats will have a plywood floor. Be sure to get in the boat when it's on a trailer and bounce around a bit. You should not feel any soft spots. It is also very important to sit in every chair and try to rock it. If excessive movement is felt through the chair the floor is most likely rotted around the base. Any floor repair can be very expensive. Fiberglass boats will also most often have a plywood floor also but it will be sealed in fiberglass. The same checks described above for aluminum boats should be performed for fiberglass boats, but the likely hood of a rotted floor is small.
Carpet/Upholstery
Visually check the carpet and upholstery for excessive wear or even damage. Sure the boat won't sink if either the carpet or upholstery is in poor condition but is does deduct from what the boat is worth and is costly to repair.
Gauges / Instruments / Lighting
You may have to take the sellers word for the speed and rpm indicator but take the time to verify other gauges and see that the bow and stern lights work. You can also verify bilge and livewell pump operation by listening for a steady hum that doesn't include and squealing.
Batteries
Look for the purchase date on the battery for starting the motor if applicable and the deep cycle battery/batteries for the electric trolling motor if applicable. Lead acid batteries in a marine application don't typically last more than 4 years and on average cost about $80 to replace.
Trailer
Since every boat needs a trailer here's some additional information. Be sure to check the wheel bearings and look at the tires for damage or weathering. If looking at a bunk trailer ask if the carpet has any tears or inspect yourself when test driving the boat. Last step is to make sure the trailer light work. Does the trailer have a spare tire? If not a spare will cost on average $70-$90.
About this Author
Jeff Matura has been fishing during the open water season and through the ice for over twenty years in the Midwest including the Mississippi River for crappie, walleye, and bass.
Visit his latest website for the best deals on fish finders for sale along with vhf marine radios.
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